Have you personally visited any of Henry's destinations, or
researched their present-day incarnations? Do you want to visit any of them
yourself, in particular? Do you think you would experience a form of culture
shock to take up residence in a place with such a deep historical heritage? How
would it impact your "mind" to live in such a place, or alter your
worldview?
I have not visited any of Henry James’s destinations, but
as I read English Hours, I was
already planning to travel to several locations. I did travel to Scotland in
2014 and visited Robert Burns’s homeplace in Alloway and was enamored by St.
Andrews and Edinburgh. As I walked the streets and visited the historic sites, I knew that I would return there in a moment. My visit occurred immediately prior to
the Independence vote and I spoke to citizen throughout various cities and felt
very comfortable there. The castles which I visited were a treasure trove of
information that would have kept my interest for some time and I would have
enjoyed staying indefinitely. I don’t think that I would have experienced as much
culture shock as I did when I went to Gdansk, Poland or Poitiers, France,
mainly because I could understand the language and I knew something of the
history.
My first trip to Europe was to Poland and that was truly a
cultural shock and did impact my mind, made me appreciate our country, but
humbled me when I saw evidence of the ancient and current history. The
landscape that existed when my ancestors were there was probably similar in some respects even today, but the devastation from
World War II even though sixty years ago was still etched in the consciousness and visible in old images. I kept a journal which I am including so that you can understand
how traveling to another country may impact your life; it did mine. I wrote notes on my next
trip to Poitiers, France, but sadly not nearly as extensive and I failed to capture
the awe I felt walking down a sidewalk and then suddenly coming face-to-face
with an enormous cathedral built in the 11th or 12th
century; hundreds of years before we became a nation. I wish that I had spoken
French, it would have been more enjoyable, but the people were for the most part
very nice to me and helped even though there was a language barrier. In fact, I
met a young woman who helped me when I got lost. She spoke Slovak, French, and
English and inspired me to try and learn another language. We have kept in
touch and she is about to have her first child very close to my birthday. I am
including a link to Poitiers and if you can learn to speak or understand French, I highly recommend it
as a place to go and be immersed in French culture; a little removed from the
more tourist focused Paris.
This is what attracted me to Henry’s description of the
sites he visited and the “walks” he took. I know that most of them will look
different today, but some will still have meadows and sheep in the fields and I
would love to walk over the streets in Stratford where I know that Shakespeare would
have travelled. It was a thrill for me to step into Robert Burns’s birthplace
and know that Muhammed Ali had also been there; he would have had to bend down.
I would love to have known what he thought. And it was a stroke of luck to see
some of the original paintings related to Burns’s poem, Tam o’ Shanter, and walk through
the cemetery and stand on the bridge over the River Doon made famous by that
poem.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bridge+over+river+doon&oq=bridge+over+river+doon&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.9583j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.google.com/search?q=bridge+over+river+doon&oq=bridge+over+river+doon&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.9583j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Link to Robert Burns
home page - http://www.burnsmuseum.org.uk/
Link to Poitiers, France
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poitiers
(note a famous philosopher was associated with it).
Part of My Journey to
Poland – attached.
When I arrived at the
airport in Gdansk, I experienced my first uneasiness, not quite fear, but I
didn’t have any Polish currency and no one spoke enough English to help me
figure out how to call them to let them know I was there. I was directed to several locations, kiosks,
etc. to buy a telephone card, but they didn’t understand what I needed. Finally a lady behind one of the counters
where they sold purses understood my plight enough that she went to several
kiosks and finally came back and took out her cell phone and called the number
and I spoke to Tadeusz. I am deeply
indebted to her, although I will never know her name.
Malgorzata said that
they were sending a taxi to pick me up.
I waited outside the terminal, it was a little cool and breezy and I saw
several taxis come up and was asked by a few – “taxi” and I asked if they were
from the Villa Akme and they shook their head as if they didn’t understand, so
I waited. Finally, one taxi stopped and
the driver mentioned my first name and I got in. When we arrived at the Villa Akme, it
appeared very nice as I passed through the gate and they came out and paid the
driver the fare. Now I met them for the
first time and even though we couldn’t chat freely, they knew enough English
that I felt comfortable and welcome.
They gave me my room key
and directions to my room and I asked if I could freshen up and then come back
to visit with them – I had not been able to wash up since Wednesday
morning. The room was nice and clean,
two beds not like ones I was accustomed to at home, closer to the floor and
with thinner mattresses, but comfortable.
The shower was one where you pulled two glass doors together. After I freshen up, I went down and took my
folder with an old map of the area and pictures of my family and death
certificates of my grandparents and great-grandfather. I shared them and then explained what I
wanted to try to do while I was there.
We determined that if I
wanted to visit Frombork as well as Malbork that I would have to go to Frombork
first since that museum was closed on Sunday.
It appeared that the best way to get there and back was by bus. They ordered dinner for me and it was my
first taste of a red soup called xxxxx. it had dumplings stuff with pork – and it was very good. I also had the xxxxx. with shredded cabbage –
a couple of types and then I turned in
for the night. They asked me when I
wanted breakfast and I said around 8 would be fine. I slept well, awoke early so that I could try
and see as much as I could. Breakfast
was very good – a variety of eggs, ham, cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, some
yogurt which I didn’t eat not knowing how it might affect me – I experience
some lactose intolerance, so I tried to avoid most dairy products since I
wasn’t sure about the availability of bathrooms especially since I was
traveling on public transportation. For my drink, I had Coke which I knew over
the next three days was not the beverage most people drank in the morning.
The directions to the
bus stop were pretty easy, it was close by.
Malgorzata gave me a combination
of currencies totaling to 100 zloty and said that that should be enough to get
me to Frombork and back with extra to spare and she cautioned me to be careful
not to carry extra cash and to watch out for possible pickpockets – now I felt
some anxiety. It was a little chilly and
unfortunately, I had left the sweater I had planned to bring with me on my bed
at home, but they were very kind and loaned me their son’s coat and it came in
very handy especially on the second day.
While I stood at the bus stop I noticed a couple of other people waiting
to ride and I asked if they spoke any English – they just shook their
head. When the bus arrived, it was # 118
and I got on, I didn’t know what the fare was, so I handed the driver a 10
zloty bill and he gave me my first change in coins which of course I didn’t know
what their value was and then he handed me two sets of three tickets. I thought that was all I needed, it wasn’t
until two days later that I learned that I was suppose to insert them in a
little box and it would date and time stamp the ticket and that’s how they
tracked how long you had been on the bus and how much you should have paid for
the trip.
We arrived at the bus
station and as I exited the bus I noticed everyone going down the steps into an
underground passage, an area I would see several times during the next three
days. It wasn’t crowded, but there were
a lot of open shops – clothes and an array of other items, but I didn’t have
time to look at them closer, because I wanted to make sure that I got on the
bus to Frombork. Now I came face to face
with the difficulty of communicating, it was very difficult trying to find how
to get the bus to Frombork. I asked
several people if they spoke English, none did.
Now I began to feel something of what my ancestors must have felt. I was in a strange place, I knew no one and
with each person I asked I could become a possible target to be preyed upon and
I was suddenly a little scared. I exited
and re-entered the station a couple of times, walked around one side and saw a
middle aged gentleman with a back pack.
I took a chance and asked him if he spoke English, he said “a little”
something that was welcome news to me during the next couple of days. I told him, I was trying to get to
Frombork. He motioned for me to go
downstairs and then said something that sounded like Information. I went down and saw what appeared to be a
ticket window. I walked over and asked
the lady behind the window if she spoke English, she shook her head and then I
said Frombork and she pointed up the steps and said what sounded like 8. I went upstairs and saw several buses, but I
had no idea which one to take. After several more minutes I decided it wasn’t
going to happen and I decided to just walk around Gdansk and try to find my way
back to the Villa Akme. I got to the end
of the street passed all of the parked buses and then I thought of the little
token one of my fellow employees gave me for good luck – On it was written,
“You won’t waste tomorrow if you seize today.”
I decided to turn around and try one more time. As I walked back down the steps, I saw a
young woman with blonde hair carrying a pack, I asked her if she spoke English
and she said those magical words - “a
little” and she saved me. She told me to
follow her and that she was going to the bus stop and would be taking the same
bus, traveling a little further than Frombork.
As passengers crowded onto the bus, we got separated and she boarded
first, but as she did, I saw her look down from the steps and smile to see that
I was okay. Once I made it onto the bus
and paid my fare, I sat down in a seat in front of her and she told me that she
would let me know where I needed to get off.
As the bus pulled out of
the station, I looked back and wondered how successful I would be in finding my
way back. As we traveled along the
narrow road, I saw my first turbo windmill near what appeared to be a chemical
plant and then something magical happened; in the front of the bus I heard the
Violent Femmes song, Do You Really Want to Hurt Me in English. I turned and
looked back and said to my fellow passenger – it’s in English. She smiled and said that they listened to
songs in English – I wondered if they understood the lyrics, but I then I
realized the beauty of music – you can enjoy the melody even if you don’t
understand the lyrics. As we traveled
along, I saw some businesses that I recognized, a Ford car dealership and Coca
Cola. A lot of the buildings appeared
off white to gray; I later learned that many were bricks covered with
plaster.
We crossed a river about
½ hour outside of Gdansk and then I saw several fields that had been ploughed,
some worked up and tilled, the soil appeared as heavy deep rich dark brown
clay. I saw people in a field gathering
up what looked like potatoes and saw a V-shaped machine digging up a row. We
passed signs for towns like Nowy Dwor, Orlen, Stobna, Kepki, Bielnik and
Janowo. The roads were very narrow with
entrances some time right off the main highway.
As you exit a town, you see a sign with a red line drawn through the
name. The barns and houses are very close which would be nice in the winter
time when you had to take care of the livestock, but might be a little too
close in the summer. Several of the
houses looked bigger that a residential home.
I saw several homes with front yards filled with flowers and several
more fields filled with greens of some sort.
The bus would stop and pick up additional passengers along the way. At one stop a young girl got on and sat next
to me. I learned that she was a student;
she seemed to understand a couple of words of English. When she got up to leave she smiled and said
something that made me think she was either wishing me to have a nice day or
good bye.
In Elblag, I noticed
that there were some houses with colored exteriors – pale yellow, and
brown. Some had alternating stripes – it
was similar to orange, but not exactly.
The colors appeared to have a darker value. North of Elblag there was a new subdivision
with houses with more and brighter colors and most with tiled roofs. Finally, I saw some signs that indicated that
Frombork was close. My fellow passenger
who I had asked an occasional question and tried to learn how to say please and
thank you told me when we reached the bus stop where I needed to get off. I thanked her and told her to tell her Mom
and Dad that they had raised a very nice daughter. As I stepped off the bus, I was confronted by
an enormous statue of Nicholas Copernicus in front of a huge castle. Frombork is a small town with probably less
than 3,000 people with charming houses with this huge castle on top of a hill
overlooking the town. I walked around it
for several minutes until I located the entrance to it. I went into the office and purchased tickets
to see three parts of the structure. One
was the museum where I saw several of Copernicus’s writings, old books and maps
of cities some dating back into the 1500s and also some of the devices
(probably replicas of what he used). Standing there one develops an
appreciation of his genius recognizing that without the help of a telescope,
computer or space photography, he was able to determine that the Earth revolved
around the Sun and not the other way around which had been the accepted and
only allowed theory for over a thousand years and anyone who suggested
otherwise was subject to torture and death.
In the museum, there was
the Astrolabium and a Sphericum Opuseulum from Krakow around 1522 and something
titled a Triquetrum. The museum
personnel were very strict – no pictures were allowed. Next I climbed the Belfrey Tower where Jean
Foucault’s pendulum hangs which demonstrated that the Earth rotates. At the top of the tower I walked out onto a
walkway that went around the tower and got a beautiful panoramic view of Frombork
looking out on to the town and out on to the Wislana lagoon which should be
connected to the Baltic Sea. I can only
imagine what it would look like at night – no light pollution here. I saw a young couple exchange a kiss at the
pendulum and I hated to have intruded on their moment of intimacy.
Walking out of the Tower
I decided I need to use the bathroom and this was when I first learned that
there was a fee accessed for using the bathroom, it was about $0.50, but the
bathroom were very clean. The last part
of the castle that I had a ticket for was the cathedral, but I had already
asked twice and both times, when I went to where I thought they had pointed for
me to go, the door was locked. This time
I was lucky. As I walked along the
walkway, a woman came walking toward me.
I asked her if she spoke English, she didn’t. Then I showed her my ticket and she motioned
for me to follow her. When we arrived at
the door, she took out a key and unlocked the door and together we stepped into
a foyer and then I followed her toward the sanctuary. She made the sign of the cross and then went
and sat down in one of the pews. I went
and sat down in a pew several behind hers and looked to the front and to the
back spell bound by the incredible beauty in both directions. Remembering how I was not allowed to take
pictures in the museum, I approached her and took out my camera and motioned
with it to her to see if it would be okay to take pictures and she nodded
affirmatively. I took a couple of
pictures and then I wanted to know how old the cathedral was. I took my little Polish phrase book and knelt
beside her and point to the Polish word for old. She understood what I was asking and she said
“Copernicus” I said “Here when Copernicus here” and she nodded yes. A couple more minutes passed and I decided it
was time to go. As I motioned to her
that I was ready to go, she gave me an unexpected surprise. She motioned me to
an area just outside of the inner sanctuary and pointed to the floor and then
she made a motion with her hands clasped together as if it were someone was
laying down to sleep and she let me know that it was where Copernicus would
sleep. I motioned to her that I would
like to take her picture there, but she shook her head and indicated that she
would take mine. I gave her the camera and then I knelt on the site believing
it would be more respectful than standing.
Then I left the castle and wandered into town trying to find where the
bus stop was for the return trip to Gdansk. I was a couple of hours early, but
I didn’t want to miss the bus since it was the last one for the day. After I located the stop, I walked around the
little town square and saw an ATM with the Plus symbol. I nervously inserted my ATM card wondering
what would happen if it didn’t return it.
A little to my surprise I was able to get some local money and it
returned my card. I walked back to the
bus stop and then up and down the sidewalk a block or two but always in sight
of the bus stop. Finally, I noticed that
there were several people gathering there and I decided to walk back and just
wait for the bus.
Thank you, Don, I feel like I've really been to Poland!
ReplyDelete"Now I began to feel something of what my ancestors must have felt. I was in a strange place," - it's what so many displaced persons and immigrants must feel, every day. So shameful for politicians to make their sad plight even worse with hateful, unsympathetic words.
Great post Don. Wow you have really traveled there haven't you. I love to travel too. I would really love to see Eastern Europe like Poland, Romania and the Mediterranean. I had the chance to see Greece though.
ReplyDelete